类型: IC
作者:
LifeIsOnTheWire
发布时间: 2018-03-29 19:45:06
更新时间:
2018-03-29 19:45:06
原链接:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=94922.0
Hi everyone. I guess this isn’t really an “IC”, just wanted
to show off something that I’m about to have manufactured,
and get some feedback from you folks. In simplest terms it
is a controller board similar to the Teensy or Pro Micro
boards that everyone uses for hand-wiring keyboard projects,
however this one is specifically designed for keyboard
hand-wire projects.
Pictures at the bottom V V V V
The
concept behind this one is that it is soldered to 2x
switches on your top row, and it is supported by soldering
to the switch pins as you typically would with a PCB. This
controller board has a home! That coveted 10mm thick
sandwich-style keyboard is much easier now.
I made it
because I feel the biggest problem with hand wire projects
is that there is nowhere to easily stow your controller
board. Most people just leave them hanging in the case. Some
people glue them somewhere, and run a USB extension cable to
the edge of their keyboard. It is a rather troublesome
factor for me.
I’m posting this to gain some feedback,
and see if there are any thoughts or concerns that anyone
wants to share, before I have them manufactured.
This
is a personal project, I’m prepared to buy a batch on my
own. I’m not doing this contingent on the success of a GB or
anything. If anyone happens to be interested in buying them,
I will definitely take orders.
The board is about 99%
done at this point. I have several final touches left, some
traces might be rerouted, I still need to clean up the
solder mask a bit to cover a few exposed traces. I will be
ordering a batch of prototypes in a few days.
A few
points/thoughts about the design:
- Atmega32u4 chip, full QMK compatability
- 25 IO pins available (including the Row0, Col0, and Col1 integrated into the 2 onboard switches)
- The 2 onboard switches have pinouts on the sides that allow you to continue wiring the remainder of Row0, Col0, and Col1
- I am in the process of changing the USB connector to a Type-C connector.
- The USB port is aligned to the USB cutout in most GH60/60% cases (between the 1st and 2nd switches on top row), it looks like the JD40 and others use this same position.
- This board is compatible with any layout as long as you have at least 2 switches on your top row with 1u spacing between them (I can’t think of any layouts that don’t offer this).
- The size of the board is made possible by rotating the 2x onboard switches 90 degrees, facing away from eachother, and the 2 switches below the board on the 2nd row are rotated 180 degrees. See the picture below.
- The notch on the top left might need some resizing to actually clear some legs/supports if used in a Plate Sandwich-style keyboard. I’m not super confident about it clearing some legs.
-
Pinouts are arranged in a standard 26-pin (2x13) pin
header layout (standard 2.54mm spacing, just like most PC
motherboard ribbon cables, or like the Rasp Pi). If you
want to solder in a pin header, and use a ribbon cable to
wire up your keyboard, this is ready for that. However,
most keyboards probably wouldn’t have a enough room below
a PCB for a ribbon cable connector (those ribbon
connectors are like 14mm tall). However, some angled high
profile cases would have more than enough room.
The last thought I have about this is that one of my initial concerns was that some keycaps might not accomodate a 90 degree rotation (the cross-shape of the MX stem is not symmetrical), however I have never seen a keycap that does not have a symmetrical female-stem interface, they might exist, but I haven’t seen them).
Some people have also suggested that some keycaps might be excessively tight fitment if rotated. I haven’t found this to be the case with any of the switches and keycaps I have laying around.
Please let me know if you are familiar with any caps that would not work in this way, I am no keycap expert.
Layout image: https://i.imgur.com/1Y5Paue.jpg
Example image of how the switches need to be rotated to accommodate the board: https://i.imgur.com/zDCRIOe.png I have over-exaggerated the overhang of the board that intrudes under the lower switches. Its not nearly that much, I just wanted to emphasize the reason for the lower switches being rotated 180 degrees.
Thanks for any constructive feedback you have