类型: GB
作者:
WhiteFireDragon
发布时间: 2012-10-27 17:26:10
更新时间:
2013-07-11 12:34:00
原链接:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=36907.0
> ORDER FORM <
11/24/12 deadline, $35 shipped (round1 finished)
Final plate design
old plate
What this is about
This is a
metal plate that goes on top of the PCB of TKL sized
keyboards to make the overall keyboard feel more solid.
Since most TKL keyboards already have a plate, why would you
need this one? Because it was designed so that you can take
the switches apart without having to desolder the whole
switch first. Stock plates do not have the little notches at
the sides of of the switch to allow them to open up. Many
mods (lubrication, stabilizing stickers, swapping springs,
stems, or complete switches) require that you desolder every
switch to pull them out, do the mod, then resolder all of
them back. This is rather tedious and require
desoldering/soldering equiment every time you want to change
something. This plate allows you to skip that step. This
plate also allows to you choose between Costar stabilizers
or Cherry stabilizers. The idea was inspired by the custom
Phantom project.
Material will be 1/16” aluminum that I’ll try to
anodize myself.
Compatibility
This is a ANSI layout with 1.25x size
bottom-modifiers, in a ten
key less form factor.
Filco and CoolerMaster quickfire TKL are pretty popular
keyboards, so I measured this plate to fit those. There are
other cutout holes to fit other TKL keyboards as well, but
I’m still in the process of confirming those keyboards. It
will also be compatible with phantom PCB. This might work
for full size Filco and Rosewills, but I’ll have to confirm
that later. Here are all the models I’m trying to make this
compatible with:
Filco TKL
CM Quickfire Rapid
Leopold FC200R
Ducky Year of the Dragon
HPE 87
Key Cool 87
PLU 87
KBT oni
Noppoo Choc Mid
Phantom custom
Filco/Rosewill 104 (maybe)
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Requirements*
The initial first time installation will require you to desolder all the switches, change out the stock plate, install this new plate, then solder all the switches back to the PCB. Tutorial on how to do that HERE so you can do it yourself. This also means you must buy some soldering equipment to do the job. I’m also willing to install these plates for you before shipping them out, but you need to first contact me for that. Here are the bare minimum that you’ll need: -
Rosin-core solder (smaller than 0.04” diameter)
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Ordering*
This is NOT and interest check. I originally wanted this plate for myself, so the order will go through regardless of how many orders there will be. This also means that I’m not going to wait around for the normal group buy order times. -
deadline: Orders accepted through 11/24/12, payment deadline is through 12/01/12.* You can start paying now, up until the payment deadline. Anodizing and shipping will be done in the order of payment received, so the sooner you pay, the more priority you get.
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plate cost: $35 for the 1st plate, $30 for additional plates.* This is out-the-door costs, so it INCLUDES shipping. Nearly half the cost of this plate is from the 2 or 3 way shipping.
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Other technical details:* The placement of the keys’ position were based on mathmatically calculations based on key sizes. These are exact values, and I used a digital caliper to compare these values with an actual Filco PCB. The cut out holes are a tad more accurate than phantom’s plate, but when actually making these plates, the tolerances of the machines will make the differences negligible. The hole placements for screws were physically measured with a digital caliper, so they should be accurate but not exact unless I have schematics to all the keyboards.